Is My Tree Dead or Just Dormant? How to Tell

Your tree hasn't leafed out. Or it dropped its leaves early. Or it just looks... wrong. Before you call for removal, you need to answer one question: is it dead, or is it dormant?

Here's how to tell the difference.

The Scratch Test (Do This First)

This simple test works on most trees and gives you an immediate answer.

How to do it:

1. Find a small branch or twig (pencil-thickness is ideal)
2. Use your fingernail or a knife to scratch off a small section of outer bark
3. Look at the layer just beneath the bark

What you'll see:

• Green and moist = alive. The branch has living tissue and the tree (or at least that branch) is viable.
• Brown and dry = dead. That branch has died. But don't stop there—test other branches.

Important: Test multiple branches in different areas of the tree. A tree can have dead branches while the rest is healthy, or death can be progressing from one section to another.

The Bend Test

Another quick test for smaller branches:

• Living branches: Bend and flex without breaking (pliable)
• Dead branches: Snap cleanly with little resistance (brittle)

This works best on branches up to finger-thickness. Living wood retains moisture and flexibility; dead wood dries out and becomes brittle.

Visual Signs of a Dead Tree

Before you start scratching bark, some signs are visible from a distance:

Signs That Suggest Death

• No leaves in summer when surrounding trees are fully leafed out
• Bark falling off in large sheets, exposing bare wood
• Fungal growth: Mushrooms or shelf fungi on the trunk (indicates internal decay)
• Major cracks in the trunk
• Leaning suddenly (especially with visible root disturbance)
• Woodpecker activity: Heavy woodpecker damage suggests insects feeding on dead/dying wood

Signs That May Just Be Dormancy or Stress

• No leaves in late winter/early spring: Normal—wait for the season
• Late to leaf out: Some trees are slow starters, especially after harsh winters
• Sparse leaves: Could be stress, not death
• Early fall color: Often indicates stress, not necessarily death

Understanding Dormancy

Deciduous trees (those that lose their leaves) go dormant every winter. This is normal and healthy. During dormancy:

• Leaves fall (or were never present on new spring growth yet)
• The tree looks "dead" but is actually conserving energy
• Growth resumes when temperatures warm

In Pennsylvania, expect:

• Most trees lose leaves by late November
• Dormancy continues through winter
• Buds begin swelling in March-April
• Most trees are fully leafed by mid-May

If your tree hasn't leafed out by late May when similar trees around it have, that's when to be concerned.

Partially Dead Trees

Trees don't always die all at once. You might have:

Dead Branches on a Living Tree

This is common and doesn't necessarily mean the tree is dying. Causes include:

• Storm damage
• Shading (lower branches die as canopy grows)
• Localized disease or pest damage
• Normal aging

Action: Have dead branches removed for safety and appearance. Monitor for spreading.

Progressive Dieback

When branches are dying from the tips inward, or death is spreading across the tree, this often indicates:

• Root problems
• Vascular disease (like oak wilt or Dutch elm disease)
• Severe stress

Action: Get a professional diagnosis. This pattern is concerning.

Half-Dead Tree

One side alive, one side dead. Usually indicates:

• Root damage on one side
• Lightning strike
• Soil issues affecting part of the root zone
• Girdling damage partway around the trunk

Action: An arborist can assess whether the tree is stable and if the living portion is worth preserving.

When to Wait vs. When to Act

Wait If:

• It's still winter or early spring (before other trees have leafed out)
• The scratch test shows green on multiple branches
• The tree lost leaves late last season but looks structurally sound
• You see buds forming, even if they haven't opened

Act If:

• It's June and there are no leaves while similar trees are fully leafed
• Multiple scratch tests show only brown, dry tissue
• The tree is leaning, has major trunk damage, or shows other hazard signs
• Bark is falling off in sheets
• You see mushrooms growing from the trunk or base

The "Wait Until Spring" Rule

If you're unsure and the tree isn't an immediate hazard, the safest approach is to wait until late spring (mid-May in the Lehigh Valley) when all healthy trees should be showing leaves.

This gives you a definitive answer without guessing:

• Leaves appear: Tree is alive (even if stressed)
• No leaves appear: Tree is dead

The only exception: if the tree poses a hazard (leaning, large dead branches over targets), don't wait. Safety comes first.

What Kills Trees?

If your tree is dead, understanding why can help you protect other trees on your property:

• Construction damage: Root cutting, soil compaction, grade changes (symptoms may appear years later)
• Drought stress: Especially in trees not native to the area
• Disease: Oak wilt, Dutch elm disease, and others
• Pests: Emerald ash borer, bark beetles, borers
• Root rot: Often from poor drainage or overwatering
• Lightning strike: May kill immediately or slowly
• Old age: Trees don't live forever
• Girdling: Damage encircling the trunk (string trimmers, rodents, tied materials)

Next Steps

If your tests confirm the tree is dead:

1. Assess the risk: Is it near structures, walkways, or where people spend time?
2. Plan for removal: Dead trees become more hazardous as wood decays
3. Get quotes: Dead tree removal is often simpler (and cheaper) than living tree removal
4. Consider the stump: Decide if you want grinding included
5. Think about replacement: This may be an opportunity to plant something new

If you're still unsure whether your tree is dead or alive, an arborist can give you a definitive answer and explain what's happening. It's a small investment compared to removing a tree that might have recovered—or keeping a dead tree that could fall.